Saturday 6 September 2014

Highest motor-able road in the world, Kashmir, India

http://www.mapsofindia.com/india-tour/jammu-and-kashmir/is-khardungla-pass-the-highest-motorable-road-in-the-world/

Is Khardungla Pass the Highest Motorable Road in the World?

A road towards the snow covered Khardungla Pass

Leh Valley seen from Khardungla Pass

Mountains around Khardungla Pass

The road to Khardungla is maintained by Indian Army

The road to Khardungla Pass is often jammed because of small avalanches and minor road repairs

Indian Army camp at Khardungla Pass

Clumps of snow by the road at Khardungla Pass

North Pullu is a small stopover place for tea near Khardungla Pass

Landscape near Khardungla Pass

Khardungla Pass is the highest motorable road in the world. Really? Well, factually the answer is 'No' but it is still believed to be the one. I don’t really want to get drawn into this controversy or debate as I don’t understand on what basis it was earlier proclaimed to be the highest motorable road in the world. But we now know, for sure, that there are many higher motorable roads than the Khardungla Pass of Ladakh. It is more like the case of proclaiming Drass as the coldest place on earth, when it does not even features in the top 10 list. The locals would boast about it and take pride in it. But that is not the entire truth.

Khardungla Pass is at an altitude of 5,359 meters and is 39.7 km from Leh. Journey from Leh to Khardungla was a painful 3 hours drive up on a winding road, interrupted by minor landslides and avalanches. Higher up, the mountains were still covered with sheet of snow that melts slowly into slush of mud. The army maintains this road through out the day.

Khardungla Pass is an important gateway to the Nubra and Shyok Valley. The pass is another important gateway to Siachen Glacier. Construction work for the pass began in 1976 and was first opened in 1988. Today, it is a two way road. Though motorable road came late, it has long been navigated by traders. A caravan of about 10,000 horses and camels navigated this road annually on their way to Kashgar in Central Asia. The pass is strategically important because of the tense Indo-China relation.

Hundreds of bikers take this road daily. Some more adventurous travellers drive up to Khardungla and paddle back on their bicycles. The idea of conquering the highest motorable road seems to be on many people’s agenda while traversing this pass.

Sadly, Khardungla Pass being the highest motorable road is questionable. Well built roads have been known to exist at higher altitudes in India and Tibet, namely, Mana Pass (5,454 m), Semo La (5,565 m), Suge La (5,430 m), etc. Perhaps, Khardungla Pass has an advantage because it is open year round. The strategic importance and the recurring tension with neighbouring country China makes this an important pass for India. It is also the most popular and frequently travelled road among all of these high altitude passes.

The pass has an Indian Army post and a temple. Travellers often stop to have their photo taken along with the signboard that proclaims Khardungla Pass to be the highest motorable pass in the world. The pass cuts through the mountain peak and so it offers amazing view of Leh and mountains surrounding the valley.

Before entering the pass we stopped at two check posts. All tourists need a travel permit to enter Nubra Valley, as is the case for other places while travelling in Ladakh. Travel permits are issued by the tourism department. One can easily get permit made at travel agencies, though they charge a little bit more.

The road between Khardungla Pass and the North of Pullu has some of the thickest clumps of snow I had ever seen. Most vehicles made a stop at North of Pullu for tea and some snacks.

Khardungla Pass is the highest place I had been to so far!

Tourist Places near Kargil, Kashmir, India

http://www.mapsofindia.com/india-tour/jammu-and-kashmir/5-tourist-attractions-in-and-around-kargil/

Tourist Attractions in and Around Kargil

A house on the outskirts of Kargil

Bright morning light illuminating a landscape near Kargil

A small settlement by the Kargil to Leh highway

Kargil is 204 km from Srinagar and located on the Srinagar to Leh Highway. It is also a junction where roads to Skardu and Zanskar converge. Kargil is the second largest town in Ladakh and was once a flourishing and an important town lying on the ancient trade routes between India, China and Central Asia. The town has regained its prominence after it was opened to foreign tourists in 1974.

Following are 5 major attractions in and around Kargil that can be explored if you happen to visit this town:

1. Pashkum

Pashkum is located 15 km from Kargil on the Leh road. It is a historical village with beautiful ruins of castles on hillocks, reminding visitors of its glorious past.

2. Mulbek

Mulbek is a small Buddhist village at a distance of 42 km from Kargil on Kargil-Leh road. The main attraction of Mulbek is Mulbek Chamba which has a nine metered tall 7th century rock sculpture of the ‘Maitreya’- the future Buddha and a monastery with beautiful wall painting and statues. There is also a mosque and remains of a fort, which can be visited in Mulbek.

3. Shargole

Shargole is a beautiful village located about 35 km towards the right side of Kargil-Leh road. Majority of its population comprises of Buddhists and Muslims. The main attraction is a small monastery with beautiful interior wall paintings. It is perched on a cliff and offers great picturesque views. An exciting four days trek from Shargole leads to Suru valley via Safi La and Rusila Passes. Mulbek and Shargole are connected with Kargil by proper road and have daily bus services. Even private mini buses operate on this route.

4. Fokar Urgiyan Rzong

Fokar Urgiyan Rzong is around 8 km further up streams from Shargole. It is located behind a natural fortress. It is best known for the cave monastery of Urgiyan Rzong. This monastery is the popular meditation retreat of Guru Padma Sambhava. Handprints of the great saint and natural statues and figures can also be seen here.

5. Rgyal Wakha

Rgyal Wakha is a village, little further from Mulbek. This is hidden in a vertical cliff of conglomerate formation and looks like beehive from afar. Expect stunning views of the surrounding areas from the village.

Know about Donkey Sanctuary, Leh, Kashmir, India

http://www.mapsofindia.com/india-tour/jammu-and-kashmir/donkey-sanctuary-leh/

Donkey Sanctuary, Leh

Donkey Sanctuary in Leh is the only such sanctuary in Asia

Entrance to the Donkey Sanctuary in Leh

Fodders for donkeys at the sanctuary

Interesting notice boards at the sanctuary will draw your attention

The caretaker checking out the houses used for keeping new born donkeys at the Donkey Sanctuary in Leh

A donation box at the Donkey Sanctuary in Leh

Visitors can choose a donkey from the fold and volunteer to sponsor it for a year

Landscapes near Donkey Sanctuary at Leh

I had neither imagined nor had heard of an exclusive sanctuary for donkeys till I landed at the Donkey Sanctuary on my visit to Leh. It is around 3 km from the main city. I took a cab to the sanctuary and had a hard time locating it. Since it is the only donkey sanctuary in Asia, I had imagined it bigger. Initially, it was a let down as the donkey sanctuary turned out to be nothing more than a barn. But the whole concept of it startled me and engaged my mind the whole time.

The sanctuary was started by an individual named Joanne Lefson, a photo journalist from South Africa. She was saddened to see the donkeys in implorable conditions. Though their plight was lamented by animal lovers, nothing had been done to improve their conditions. Joanne along with her local friend Stanny Wangchuk founded the Sanctuary to improve the living conditions of the donkeys in Leh. Joanne wrote a book, 'Around the world: My travels with Oscar', documenting travel experiences with her dog Oscar.

At the gate of the Donkey Sanctuary it was written, “This sanctuary was opened in July 2008 to accommodate the neglected donkeys in Leh. This place is a peaceful resting place for those that have faced unbearable hardships. Here they will find peace.”

The notice boards were put up to spread awareness about the prevailing conditions and how donkeys are being treated. One board reads, “Why donate? I'm just a donkey. I work very hard for most of my life but when I'm no longer needed I'm often sent to the street to try and survive on my own. There I'm forced to eat plastic and anything else I can find. I grew thin, tired and weak. I'm kicked, whipped and often beaten, against all the odds, I manage to survive. Many of my friends are attacked by the dogs. Many of them are hit by the vehicle. Then one fine day, I'm brought to this place. 'HOME FOR THE HELPLESS DONKEYS.' Now I've many friends, my belly is full and I have shelter from the severe Ladakh winters.”

The caretaker, a local Ladakhi who looks after the sanctuary on his own said that they could only take in around 30 donkeys at a time. Preferences are given to injured and pregnant donkeys. But once they are healed and have given birth they are released back to the open to look after themselves once again. The sanctuary is run on donations and favours shelled out by concerned travellers and animal lovers.

Address of the Donkey Sanctuary:

Home for Helpless Donkeys, Korean Temple Road, Village Khakshal, Leh-Ladakh, Jammu and Kashmir - 194101

Biking Paradise - Leh to Manali, Kashmir, India

http://www.mapsofindia.com/india-tour/jammu-and-kashmir/the-journey-from-leh-to-manali/

Journey from Leh to Manali: Biking Paradise

A herd of goats at a valley in Ladakh

Passing through the beautiful Ladakh Valley was one highlight of the journey

Stopping for a breakfast at a small dhaba on the Leh to Manali highway

Travellers basking in the sun while waiting for breakfast after a long ride

Unique Ladakh landscape along the Leh to Manali highway

A high altitude lake and snow peaked mountains on the Leh to Manali Highway

A cafe at the height of more than 4300 m

Mini buses parked near makeshift dhabas at Zing Zing Bar

Woolen gloves and hats sold outside a shop at Zing Zing Bar

A beautiful village near Keylong

First glimpse of Keylong

A group of bikers on their way to Leh from Manali

A duo riding their bicycles all the way from Leh to Manali

Clumps of snow on the higher mountains overlooking Keylong

The last stop before climbing Rohtang Pass

A bus climbing up the precarious Rohtang Pass

View of a vibrant mountain from Rohtang Pass

The mud covered road towards Manali near Rohtang Pass

Fog covered road at Rohtang Pass

Road from Leh to Manali is perhaps the most popular route for bikers in India. For many reasons it is perfect for an adventurous ride, but it is not an easy road to travel. Leh to Manali is a 474 km ride through one of the most unique landscapes across the country.

For a stretch of around 250-300 km there was not a single house except for a couple of makeshift tea points along the road. The condition is harsh and not conducive for permanent settlement. It is one of the most barren and isolated places you'll ever see in India. Travelling through the isolated landscapes was a new experience as I am more used to daily chaos and hustle-bustle of big city life. Here you find yourself alone in the midst of unprecedented vastness, just you and the mountains. I felt so liberated. But at the same time, the experience of it was gruesome, and later, I was happy to be back to civilization after almost a 15 hours drive.

Mini buses for Manali leaves Leh around 2 am in the morning. There are no big vehicles or buses because of the precarious road conditions. It was a bit inconvenient checking out of the hotel so early in the morning. My guest house owner warned me of not getting too close with stray dogs at night as they scavenged by the roadside and do not want to be bothered. He handed me an iron rod to keep away dogs but luckily I didn't encounter any on my on my way to the main bazaar.

When the bus left, it was still very dark and Leh was sleeping. It was few minutes after we left the check-post at Leh that the sky burst and a drizzle turned into a heavy rain. I was in the front seat with the driver, and we could hardly see a thing. I was worried and looked at the driver to see how he was holding up. He didn't seem to be bothered at all. He slowly raised volume of the music, higher than the torrents of rain, and hummed along with it. Sometimes it would wake the passengers but I thought he was more concerned about staying awake. I soon went to sleep but when I woke up, we were traversing through snow peaked mountains. The rain had stopped but the cold woke up most of the travellers as we searched through our bags for warm clothes.

Soon, the sun had risen and we were driving through a high altitude valley. The sun lit the valley and turned the grasses to golden brown; few herds of sheep and goats grazed in the valley. It was a priceless moment. We soon stopped at a small place for breakfast. There were 3-4 makeshift shops that serve tea and some basic food like paranthas and maggi. That was the last stop we made in a long time.

Later we were traversing through giant mountains and deep gorges. Along the road we came across lots of bikers. I was surprised to find some women bikers groups too. It would have taken a lot of courage to travel in India alone, let alone taking a bike to Leh from Manali. I also spotted people travelling on small caravan and it gave me a thought. Especially when you are on a road trip to a place like Leh, you could stop anywhere, stay there for a few days, then start again. Here you own the place as much as anyone else.

There are no hotels midway but in the lower valley, there are few camping sites set up by businessmen. Most bikers stopped here for the night before continuing their journey to Leh or Manali.

I find the idea of biking for 15 hours exhaustive yet acceptable, but the idea of riding a bicycle from Manali to Leh didn't even occur to me until I saw a lone guy riding one. He had some of his belongings dangling from his bike. His face was tanned like roasted meat and had braided locks. I couldn't imagine how a man so small, when compared to the indomitable mountains could have a will so big. At the end he had nothing to gain, except for the sheer pleasure and fond memories. But this alone is enough to push oneself to the limits for many travellers.

On my trips I have seen crazy stuff and I have no doubt that when it comes to travel, we Indians are a lot more conservative. We think travel as being luxurious. We could learn a few things from foreign travellers, when it comes to the spirit of travelling and adventure.

Mountains have always been considered sacred by many religions. We would hear stories of monks and sages disappearing to the mountains for meditation to find inner peace. When you drive though 15 hours on the mountains, you begin to have a lot of respect for it. We had lunch at the base of a snow covered mountains at a place called Zing-Zing-Bar, at a height 4,320 m. Though the food was simple, we had a sumptuous meal. The place also offered lodging facility in case of emergencies.

From then on, we began to see a lot more of greenery. The driver looked over his shoulder and said we've entered Himachal Pradesh. The road seemed endless and the mountains unconquerable. The greenery came to full view as we meandered down to Keylong, the biggest town between Leh and Manali. The town cling on to a steep hill but I instantly fell in love with the place. Most travellers stop at Keylong on their way to Manali or Leh.

By late evening, we had already started climbing the Rohtang Pass. The mountain loomed like a giant barricade. It is one of most precarious and coldest mountain passes in India. Thick clumps of fog came out of nowhere and covered the mountains. When we were at the peak, we could only see few metres in front. The wind was cold and unforgiving. It was summer and the sun stayed up long enough but when we reached Manali it was already dark.

We have arrived at a green valley and to the chaos and the life of a bigger town. If travelling should be about a little solitude to reflect oneself, then this journey was worth every inch and couldn't have been more exciting.

Leh to Manali distance: 473.9 km

Leh to Manali by road time: 17 hours approximately

Mini bus fare: Rs.1300

Ten Places to visit in Kashmir, India

http://www.mapsofindia.com/india-tour/jammu-and-kashmir/10-places-to-visit-in-kashmir/

10 Places to Visit in Kashmir

View of Dal Lake and Srinagar city at sunset

Gondola ride at Gulmarg

The pine covered mountains and the Lidder River at Pahalgam

Leh's valley looked an like oasis surrounded by mountains

Snow peaked mountains on the Manali to Leh Highway

Nubra Valley is one of the greenest region in Ladakh

Camel ride at Hunder sand dunes in Nubra Valley

High mountain pass and snow make Kashmir a difficult place to travel

A house at Drass Valley in Kashmir

Kargil is the second largest town in Ladakh

Kashmir is unparalleled in terms of scenic beauty. There's no place as beautiful and vibrant as Kashmir. In summer the snow melts, the hills become green, and flower blossoms fill the parks, gardens and hillsides. In winter the snow adds a new charm. In summer, the great plains of India reel under tormenting heat wave, and Kashmir, a pristine place with cool valleys and snow-peaked mountains, offers an enticing getaway to refresh and be nourished in the lap of nature. Kashmir is easy to access in summer. In winter, most of the roads towards Ladakh are closed because of snow and they remain covered till spring, until the clearing works starts. There are state-run bus services to almost all the major destinations in Kashmir.

Here are 10 best places to visit in Kashmir:

1. Srinagar:

The capital city of Kashmir has long been considered the ultimate summer destination from the time of the Mughals. The Mughals built many gardens in and around the city, which exist even today. Srinagar is a beautiful valley surrounded by mountains, with the picturesque Dal Lake in the middle. The lake has thousands of colourful Shikaras floating on it. Tourists can also experience living on houseboats floating in the lake. The boulevard land along the lake is a much happening place. Another major attraction in the city are the massive Chinar trees. Their imposing presence almost everywhere in the city makes Srinagar unique.

2. Pahalgam:

Pahalgam was once a shepherds’ village but it has now become a hotspot for tourists as well as a quick weekend getaway for the locals living in Srinagar. The pine-covered mountains and the snow-peaked cliffs offer a lot for adventurers and trekkers. The Lidder Valley, around 24 km from Pahalgam, is a popular camping site in Kashmir. The Lidder River that runs through Pahalgam is one of the best places for trout fishing in India. State-run buses go daily from Srinagar to Pahalgam.3. Gulmarg: Gulmarg is the Indian answer to the Swiss Alps. It is perhaps the best destination for skiing in India. Gulmarg can be reached from Srinagar by a state bus after travelling 50 km. The picturesque Gulmarg is covered by pine trees on the lower ranges and snow on the peaks. There are Gondola services to the top of the peak, where one can try skiing or simply enjoy the view and the snow.

4. Sonamarg:

Sonamarg is around 87 km north-east of Srinagar on the Srinagar–Leh highway. It is a small but historic town on the bank of Nallah Sindh and at the foothills of the Thajiwas Glacier, one of the most accessible glaciers. The Thajiwas mountain looks daunting, but one can take a pony to the base of the glacier. Sonamarg was also a gateway connecting India and China during the historic Silk Route trade.

5. Drass:

Drass, also known as the gateway to Ladakh, came to spotlight during the 1999 Indo-Pakistan war. The snow-peaked mountains seen from the valley became a fierce battleground during the conflict. The Tiger Hill is located not far from here. Drass is a beautiful valley and it is also the base to many trekking routes like the Suru Valley and the Amarnath cave. 6. Kargil: Kargil is the second largest town in Ladakh, after Leh. It is at an altitude of 2,676 metres above sea level. The Suru River (or Indus River) passes through the town. The river pumps life into this sparse landscape. Kargil came to prominence during the 1999 Kargil War between India and Pakistan. Kargil is a stopover place between Srinagar and Leh. The landscape and the harsh conditions make this town unique, and staying here is an interesting experience.

7. Leh:

The vast green valley surrounded by dry, brown mountains on all sides offers a contrasting sight right at the outset. The geographical and cultural alienation lend Leh a unique look and feel. Leh is one of the coolest cities in India. Ladakh is often called Small Tibet because of Tibet’s cultural and religious influence on the city and people living here. The valley is surprisingly greener than most of us would have imagined, having driven through parched landscapes for hundreds of miles. It is like a small oasis in the middle of the desert. The inhabitants of Leh are hospitable people. Leh's popularity with tourists comes as no surprise once you experience the energy of the place. It is also very affordable.

8. Zanskar:

Zanskar is a sub-district of Kargil and one of the most remote parts of Ladakh. It is also one of the least visited places in Ladakh. In winter Zanskar is accessible only on foot through a frozen river. This track is quite popular with adventurers. The remoteness has kept their culture and traditions unadulterated. The residents of Zanskar are colourful people, rich in tradition and culture. Padum is the largest town but has a meagre population of around 700 inhabitants. The rest are distributed in small villages and highlands. They keep cattle and sometimes live a semi-nomadic life, especially during summer herding their cattle.

9. Pangong Lake:

The Pangong Lake has become an important destination in Leh. A few years back it was a beautiful brackish lake known to very few people. It was relatively unknown before it got popularised by the blockbuster film 3 Idiots. After that, tourists have increased manifold. The Pangong Lake may be perhaps one of the most beautiful high-altitude lakes in the world. It can be reached after a six-hour drive from Leh via the difficult Changla Pass. A visit to the azure lake is worth it!

10. Nubra Valley:

The sand dunes of the Nubra Valley seem to have accumulated over hundreds of years due to natural phenomenon. The Shyok River and many smaller streams drain the soil from the mountains down to the valley. The continuous erosion and silt carried down by the river might have been the most accurate explanation. Today, the sand dune of Hunder is one of the most popular destinations in the Nubra Valley. The famed but small surviving Bactrian camels are a legacy of the ancient trade road that dates back centuries. Ladakh was a stopover place for caravans from India to central Asia. Most tourists flock here for a camel ride at late noon and evening. Nubra Valley is one of the greenest places in Ladakh and Diskit is its capital. Diskit is around 150 km from Ladakh's summer capital, Leh.